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Monday,
June 16 2003
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On Friday, we had classes as usual. But
the Criterium du Dauphiné Libéré was due to
come by that afternoon, so we had lunch at Joelle Staubli's house,
right next to the path the racers were due to take.
After a pleasant lunch on the tree-shaded
patio, we helped to clear the table and went out front to watch
for the cyclists.
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At 2:24pm, exactly as scheduled,
the pack of cyclists zipped past the house, accompanied by dozens
of motorcycles, press cars and support vehicles.
We snapped photos as Lance Armstrong sped by, easily recognizable in the
leader's yellow jersey. (Armstrong won the race on Sunday and is
favored to win his fifth Tour de France next month).
short film: the
cyclists ride by
A few minutes after the race had gone
by, we all headed for the embarcadero at Doussard/Bout du Lac, where
we boarded a small boat for a tour of the lake. Over the two hours
of the tour, which included a half-hour layover in Annecy, we enjoyed
the pleasant breeze on this hot and damp day; the weather has been
unseasonably hot for the past week, about 20 degrees Farenheit above
normal, which has tired us all out in this country which has little
air conditioning.
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Our boat approaches the dock in Doussard
- students and host mom and dad on the boat
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The weather was beautifully clear despite the heat and humidity.
We spotted Menthon castle and many other places along the way, gaining
a new perspective on the lake along which we have driven numerous
times.
After the boat tour, we all went home
for dinner, skipping dessert in preparation for the ice cream treats
we were all to get that evening in Annecy, courtesy of the AFA .

We drove into Annecy later that evening, once the heat has subsided
(a bit) and enjoyed a leisurely walk around the illuminated city.
We wended our way to the Pâquier, a pedestrian mall that used
to be the main thoroughfare of the Renaissance city and which is
now lined with fancy shops and restaurants.

We went into a café glacier
(café that serves ice cream) and chose elaborate confections
like Pêche Melba or Café Liégeois. Everyone
enjoyed the sumptuous desserts, though by the end of the evening
some of the students were clearly slowing down, victims of the heat
and humidity...
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Saturday is normally a day off for the group; but that afternoon
we headed for Menthon castle, which we had spotted from the boat
on Friday. We were driven by several of the host families, who joined
us for the tour of the castle which has been owned and run by the
Menthon family for well over one thousand years, though the very
name of Menthon is derived from the Celtic term men-dun,
which means "stone fortress" and bears witness to the
fact that there has been a castle or stronghold on this spot for
well over two thousand years.
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As we waited for the tour to start, some of our group climbed into
the tower over the castle's main entrance. In the photo at right,
we can see Dustin peering through a window as Adrien, Luke, Ken
and Joe look around.
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The castle tours are conducted by young people of the town of Menthon.
Dressed in medieval clothing, they act out scenes which illustrate
life in the castle over the centuries. The photo at left shows the
library with its 12,000 volumes which include numerous illuminated
manuscripts and incunabula.
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The tour takes the visitors through a number of rooms, including
the bedroom of the countess. Its walls lined with priceless tapestries,
this room was last occupied by the current count's mother.
A remote ancestor, born in the castle
in 1008, became the famed Saint Bernard, patron saint of mountain
travelers and skiers. The famed dog is named after the man who was
born in this castle almost a thousand years ago.
After a very entertaining visit, we all
returned to Faverges for the rest of the afternoon and evening.
Sunday was to be a long and busy day, with the AFA-sponsored trip
to the Grande Chartreuse valley near Grenoble.
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Sunday morning, we boarded the chartered bus at 8:30 and started
out on our day trip. There were 28 of us on the trip and the bus's
cargo hold was filled with plenty of food expertly prepared by Yvette
Millot for our picnic lunch.
Our first stop was in Freyterives, in
the heart of Savoie wine country, where we were received by reknowned
winemaker Philippe Grisard.
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Philippe showed us the winery, apologizing
that the vats were empty since last year's harvest has been either
bottled or stored in oak casks. He explained clearly the subtleties
of winemaking, and showed such enthusiasm for his work that it was
hard not to fall under his spell!
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Philippe let us taste a whole range of wines, including his new
Mondeuse Blanche as well as more typical Savoie vintages
(Roussette amd Jacquère among others) made
from more commonly known varietals such as Chardonnay, Pinot Noir
and Gamay.
He explained the various stages of wine-tasting,
and a number of the students began to appreciate the differences
between the different wines. We're all grateful to Philippe for
his kindness and his willingness to open the winery on what is normally
his only day off in the week.
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After another hour on the bus climbing
the Col du Granier mountain pass into the Chartreuse valley, we
stopped for lunch outside the Correrie, a building associated
with the monastery and which now houses an elaborate museum which
explains the 900-year history of the Chartreuse. The order, which
once had over 200 monasteries, is now comprised of only 17, one
of which was established in Vermont in 1970.
Because the monks lead a silent and contemplative
life, the monastery
itself cannot be visited. The monastery is supported by the production
of its famed elixir whose yellowish-green color is now known throughout
the world as chartreuse...
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From the Chartreuse, we drove to the town of Voiron where the production
of the elixir is now directed by monks in a large distillery.
The whole place smelled of plants; we walked through cellars lined
with vats and barrels containing millions of liters of various elixirs,
pausing three times to see short films about the history of the
order and of its elixir. One of the films was in 3D and was particularly
enjoyable. We all wore polarized glasses and laughed as branches
appeared to swing at
our heads, wood chips seemed to fly into our faces. After twenty
minutes of this, we were all getting some severe eyestrain and were
glad to continue the visit of the distillery. The photo at right
shows a few of the barrels in which the elixir is aged. The whole
place smells of herbs and spices, something like cough syrup...!
At the end of the visit, we were each
given the opportunity to sample one elixir; we shared sips from
each other's glasses in order to sample the Chartreuse Verte, Chartreuse
Jaune, berry liqueurs and Gentiane. Some of the students made purchases
in the shop, buying bottles or tee-shirts.

Quite a few bottles of wine and elixir undoubtedly will be heading
back to Ohio later this week at the end of the program. We still
have a couple more days of classes, and students are now busy studying
the final chapters of our textbook and preparing written assignments;
the weather has cooled a few degrees, which will make the last stretch
of study more agreeable and the process of packing more bearable.
Next report, at the end of the program
at the end of this week.
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